Silver Peak is an impressive dome of eroded volcanic tuff located within but set somewhat apart of the Chiricahua Mountains of southeast Arizona. It is situated northeast of the main bulk of the mighty Chiricahuas, and along with equally-impressive Portal Peak, lords over a gorgeous canyonland of rocky cliffs and tuff formations. The canyon itself is called Cave Creek Canyon, and is sometimes called the "Yosemite of Arizona" for its abundance of sheer rock walls and cliffs. However, whereas the cliffs of Yosemite are usually granite, most of the rock and cliffs in Cave Creek Canyon are tuff, which is welded ash and the result of pyroclastic volcanic eruptions - of which the entire Chiricahuas originate from a mighty blast many millions of years ago. Tuff is usually rotten for climbing, but it erodes into amazing formations which offer visually stunning views. The best example of hoodoos and spires are found in the Chiricahua National Monument, while here in Cave Creek we get more of the sheer rock cliff effect. Unlike the real Yosemite, this region sees little visitation since it is so far from most populated areas and receives so little attention. That obviously worked to my advantage - no massive crowds to contend with. Just me and a few other random travelers.

I've had my eye on this peak for awhile, but its distance - nearly 300 miles via paved highway from Phoenix - is kind of daunting, and a bit much to do in one weekend, but not impossible of course. Finally, I decided to go for it. The weather was getting real nice, typical dry autumn weather with clear days, low humidity, no chance of storms, and cool evenings. I got my stuff loaded into my truck after classes on Friday and headed out around 1:30 pm, mentally prepared for the long drive and the usual traffic between Phoenix and Tucson. It was very breezy and some dust was kicking up, in some places blowing across the highway and momentarilly cutting the visibility down to nothing. Fortunately none of these dust patches were sustained, but I took it carefully. In Tucson I had stop-and-go-and-stop-some-more traffic, then smooth sailing east through Benson to a gas and grocery run in Willcox. The sun was low by this time. The all-paved route required a drive into New Mexico, then down a state highway there to near the town of Rodeo, then back into Arizona. However, the map showed a road from San Simon leading south directly to Portal, potentially cutting off 30 miles of driving, so I took it. It was 25 miles to Portal this way, and the road did turn to graded dirt, but I drove most of it in the dark. I arrived in Portal about 6 p.m. and on to the Idlewilde campground, grabbing an open spot near a giant boulder and across from a bubbling creek. Gorgeous! I had a nice dinner, and relaxed in my truck's cab. My flashlight batteries pooped out, and the replacements were dead, too, so I robbed some from a small radio. Also, a skunk kept on sniffing around my truck, so I tried to avoid him and keep from getting 'skunked'. He finally scooted off, and I was crashed by 8 p.m. The weather was very cool and dry and wonderful, and I slept like a log.

I awoke with the sun and spent some time relaxing at camp, finally getting a good view of the campgrounds. Definitely one of the nicer campgrounds. The cliffs start literally feet behind the tent pad and picnic table. The road is just a few feet away, and on the other side, more cliffs. I exited the campground and saw a sign saying 'trail' just on the other side of the road. This seemed to agree with the map, showing the trailhead to be just across the campground, but this proved to be a false lead. The trail was a nature path that paralleled the road and nothing more, so I nixed that and walked back to my truck, and drove off looking for the proper trailhead. I found it in a pullout about a quarter-mile north of the campground - a small "Silver Peak" sign could be seen in the brush. For the record, the topo map is misleading since it groups the Portal Ranger Station, trailhead and Idlewilde campground all in one area. In reality they are spaced about a half-mile apart total. No big deal - this put me off no more than 15 minutes anyway. I finally started in on the trail about 8:40 a.m. The weather was stupendous! It was cool, and a soft and steady breeze blew. The sun was starting to breach the cliffs across the canyon, so it was warm in the sun and cool in the shade, and just when I got a bit hot now and then, a breeze would come along and cool me off.

The first mile or so works up a moderate slope of open scrubland - a mix of desert and juniper/mountain oak woodland, with cactus here, a juniper there, and lots of knee-high grasses everywhere. The trail is solid and easy to follow. I met up with a couple hunters coming down and we had a chat - they were scoping for bear but had no luck. Otherwise it was just me. The trail comes to another barbed-wire fence after about 3/4 of a mile, then turns left and parallels the fence for a bit as it gains up a broad ridge toward the main massif. Ahead of me were some amazing formations, including "The Fingers", a large prow of pillars set on a sloping hillside. Once the trail gains nearly to the base of the massif, it turns right and contours up its slopes, generally to the right (and below) The Fingers. Another fence line is passed here, and a few yards afterwards I came upon a metal signpost - with no sign. Not paying a whole lot of attention, I went straight, and quickly the trail devolved into nothing. So I returned and saw the actual path snaking up to the left. Obviously the signpost once referred to the junction and the correct turn to be made. Back on the correct path, I made good time as the trail worked its way up and around the north-facing slopes of the peak, soon coming to a bend where the true summit was visible for the first time. I walked a bit further, taking a break at the first of the many switchbacks to come. Looking up, the summit of Silver is a big broad one, with a little bare rock section poking up just above the trees - this is the highpoint. This is another example of a peak's elevation being reported incorrectly - the 'usual' elevation stated for Silver Peak is 7,975 feet, taken from a lower rise east of the highpoint. The highpoint is at 8,008 feet, but most sources ignore this for whatever reason.

Now on the north-facing slopes and slightly higher in elevation, the flora changed quickly to more substantial pine stands, mountain oak, and sections of green grasses watered by springs. I had more shade as well, and the air was much cooler as well, but not uncomfortable. The trail starts up a series of switchbacks, sometimes traversing a bit, then starting up more switchbacks, all the while gaining lots of elevation which was a good thing. A few sections of trail were eroded and other sections over-grown. Fresh bear scat was everywhere on the trail. I regretted not bringing my bear spray at the very least. I did my best to make noise, especially around blind bends. A few times I heard very distinct noises above me, spooking me in some cases. I was convinced there were bears everywhere (and in reality, probably there was!). But as I hiked, I never saw any of the beasts. In time the trail had gained high on the north flanks of the peak, alternating back into scrubbier ground cover before entering into the forest again for the final push to the top.

The final 400 feet was up a series of switchbacks, but the forest was thick enough to block most views - up and down. In one instance the trail-side scrub had grown so thick the trail itself was like a tunnel! However, as I gained closer to the top, patches of blue sky now appeared where there were once trees. This was the only hint I was close as I could not actually see the top until I was literally on the last turn. On the way up this last section I passed some gigantic free-standing tuff pillars, which was very interesting. Anyway, I came upon the last bend and then was mildly surprised I was there already! The top is saddle-shaped, connecting the 8,008-foot summit to the 7,975-foot lower summit. A forest-service shed sat right on the saddle, door open, its insides strewn about. I took a break here on the concrete stoop. I heard some noise above me - a bear? I went slowly, clapping, but then the noise was a human 'ahem'... there was a guy on the summit, signing in the log book! I wasn't expecting to see anyone, especially since I never saw him ahead of me on the hike. But it did explain some of the noises I had heard coming up - it was him, also making noises to spook the bears.

The summit is on top some piled boulders, and until 1992 a lookout stood precariously on its top, but it burned down in a fire and has never been rebuilt. To make the final few feet of ascent easier, concrete steps were built among the boulders. These lead to the top, which consists of a concrete footing for the tower, and a rock water cistern. When I showed up, the other guy was signing in and we had a chat. He climbs the peak every couple of years or so. He's in his late 70s and still looks great - I hope I'm like that when I'm that old. He shot a photo of me, then got moving, while I stayed on top, having it to myself. It had taken me just over 3 hours to make the summit from my truck, not including the time wasted on the nature trail. From the summit the views are tremendous! To the south and west is the continuous sweep of the Chiricahua Mountains. Portal Peak's challenging summit rose to the southeast, while looking directly down into the canyon I could see some of the rock cliffs. Looking east and north I saw a number of ranges, some way off in the distance in New Mexico. To the northwest the unique double-summit of Dos Cabezas Peak stood high, looking like a challenge for a future date. In all I spent about 20 minutes on top.

I started down and within minutes came upon the other hiker, and we hiked together for a few minutes, but then I took off on my own again. The hike down went very quickly. I only took one break, at roughly the half-way point down, and the trail's gradient was consistent enough so that I didn't have to watch every step so carefully - I went at a slight walk-jog. In doing so, I was down in less than two hours, which for me is pretty decent. I was back to my truck at 12:45 p.m., where I brought out the camp chair and rested for a bit, trying to pick out the hundreds of little burrs I picked up from the grasses and brush on the way down (I had to throw away my socks - they were thrashed). After changing into dry clothes I got moving, but we will definitely return to this area - there's definitely much more to explore!

Driving out I had a good chance to take a short viewing of the Cave Creek Canyon, which is especially impressive just outside the mouth of the canyon where you get a sweep of Silver Peak to the right, Portal Peak on the left, and a cliff chasm in the center, with Sentinel Peak way off in the distance between the foreground peaks. Very beautiful country. I exited out the paved route east into New Mexico and the small town of Rodeo, then south on NM-80, which turns into AZ-80 a few miles down the road. I had never driven this highway before, and had an enjoyable hour as I made my way south through the high-desert rangeland toward the border town of Douglas. Of interest along the way is a large stone monument comemorating the Surrender of Geronimo in the late 1880s. The actual surrender site is a number of miles off the highway near the New Mexico state line. After a lunch of authentic Mexican food in Douglas, I drove north to scout some leads on Swisshelm Peak for a future hike, and spent the night camping at Cochise Stronghold in the Dragoon Mountains. I had a signal and was able to pull in the D-Backs game against the Cubs, as they beat the Cubs to advance in the playoffs. However, I was so beat that I was crashed in my truck's bed by 7:45 p.m. The next day was spent exploring a little bit and driving home.