Piestewa Peak (formerly known as Squaw Peak) is one of the two principal mid-city peak hikes (Camelback Mountain being the other) that I do on a regular basis for the exercise and enjoyment. The peak is located in north Phoenix near the AZ-51 freeway off of Lincoln Avenue. It's within a city-run park which is only open during daylight hours. Fortunately, they open the gates early most days so dawn hikes are possible. The peak used to be known as Squaw Peak, but was renamed in 2003-04 after Army Pfc. Lori Piestewa, a Hopi woman from Tuba City who was the first American woman killed in action in Iraq in 2003. The "old" name, Squaw, is still fairly popular, though. I usually call it by both names.

When I first moved here in 1992, I immediately picked up on Camelback Mountain as "my" main peak to hike, mainly as it was closer to where I lived in Tempe at the time. I must have hiked Camelback a hundred times in the following few years before ever bothering with Squaw Peak, as it was known at the time. Then one day, I decided to go check Squaw Peak out and was very pleased. Although I have no clue when I first hiked Squaw Peak, I am guessing it was in 1995 or so. Over the years I have traded off hiking the two peaks. Sometimes I'll do Piestewa Peak for weeks on end, then Camelback (and sometimes, neither). I get burned out on both peaks after awhile. But they're always a good workout, and definitely worth a visit if you're new in town. I conservatively estimate 150 acents for me over the years. Some people do it every day.

The easiest access to Piestewa Peak is from the AZ-51 freeway, exit at Lincoln, go east about a half-mile and turn left (north) onto Squaw Peak Drive. There are signs along Lincoln to point the way. Parking is a big variable, and it can be very crowded on weekends. The trailhead is on the left (just note where all the people are). The trail itself is a wide path hewn directly into the rock. In places, concrete has been poured to create "steps" or berms. In a few other places, there are block walls, handrails and even a few benches along the way. This is not a wilderness hike, but despite these additions and the hordes of people, it is still an excellent hike in some rugged desert terrain.

The route switchbacks up the steep sections, generally staying on the east-facing slopes until it crosses over a pass about half-way up. The trail then traverses on the west-facing slopes before starting a hefty series of switchbacks to gain onto the final portion. Here's where the handrails begin. The final hundred feet or so is up a stair-step segment, which ends at a big bald rock dome. Most people go left and sit atop this rocky dome, but the actual highest point is a rock outcrop about 80 feet to the southeast and maybe 15 feet higher. Where the trail "ends", hang a right and ascend a short class-3 chute to small saddle, then up to the proper top. There are other ways to get here as well, navigation is very simple. The true summit has a benchmark, and maybe just two or three people sitting on it, while the other 80 or so are over on the lower rock dome. In literal terms, 95% of the people who hike Piestewa probably never reach its highest point, although I suspect 95% of them probably do not care about this small detail. For me, I usually make the top in 35 minutes, and a round trip in 65 minutes, including a 5-minute break at the summit. My best up-and-down time is 55 minutes. Superfit types can probably do the round trip in 40 minutes easily.

There are other trails that encircle the peak and the park, but they are not regularly hiked. The vast majority come here for the peak. You see everything on this peak, given enough times. I saw a group of Mennonites (or similar) hiking the peak once, the men with their big beards and women in their long dresses, but they were making their way up and having fun, so good for them. I saw a group of nuns once. You get the obvious tourists in their resort-casual slacks and $400 shoes, probably wondering what they got themselves into. There's usually a beautiful honey at least every few hundred feet. In summer, when I was dumb enough to do it in the heat, the number of hikers would drop to just a few. Back then, I'd often get a 4:30 a.m. start, so that the sun would be breaking the eastern horizon just as I hit the summit. The summer heat can still be in the high 80s-low 90s at night. Once the sun comes up, it gets very toasty and uncomfortable. I've done a summer day-time hike once or twice just to say I've done it, but that's it. It's just too hot otherwise.

Given the popularity of this peak, people do get injured or in other forms of trouble up here. It is not a peak to be taken lightly, especially for complete novices. More than once I (along with others) have helped people down who have suffered sprains. When it's warm, there are snakes. I've seen a few. Bees are also present. But overall, it's a great hike, as long as you go in beforehand with no pretense this is a wilderness experience.