The Mountains of Arizona
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Mule Benchmark • Peak 5191 I returned to the Black Hills and Big Lue Mountains area of Greenlee County, the fourth time in about six weeks I've been here. I was in the Black Hills a week ago and in the Big Lues twice in June, this time and this other time. I was mainly interested in Mule Benchmark, one of the main peaks in the Big Lue Range, as it rises above 7,000 feet elevation and hopefully would be moderately pleasant given the whole state is in the middle of a heat wave, or "Summer" as we call it in Arizona. Peak 5191 was an add-on, so that I didn't feel so guilty driving so many miles for just one peak. On my visit a week ago, I threw out my back. I bent over to pick up my day pack, and suddenly my spine went cattywampus. I was able to do my hikes that day, but any bending or torsional movements caused me great discomfort. The mis-alignment was centered on the very lower back, in the sacrum just above the tailbone. I've had this section go out on me before, usually once every couple years. It usually is painful but then self-corrects. I've learned some useful stretching techniques to help it along and avoid further instances of this happening. But while it's out of whack, it is very uncomfortable. Yesterday, I was at the gym and doing some stretching and poses on the mat. By this time, my back was about 90% better. But there was one spot I could feel that still felt pinched. I could not seem to fix it. But then, while doing one stretch, I heard a loud pop. It aligned itself. It felt wonderful. The sharp localized ache was suddenly gone. I had full movement. To say I was relieved is an under-statement. This alone made my day. So now I wanted to get back hiking. I was mindful to not put too much strain on the back now, so these two peaks were chosen partly for their (hopefully) tame terrain. There would be no scrambling or other such maneuvers. Just walking up slopes.
Date: July 6, 2025
• Elevation: 7,049 feet ✳
• Prominence: 403 feet ✳
• Distance: 2.5 miles
• Time: 1 hour, 45 minutes
• Gain: 810 feet
• Conditions: High clouds, warm
Arizona
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Main
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PB
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LoJ
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Lidar
I was up at 1 a.m. and on the road at 1:50 a.m., following the same route as last week — through Elfrida, Kansas Settlement, Willcox and Safford. Traffic was very light, as expected. I stopped in Willcox for a snack and to stretch my back, then again in Safford for gas ... and to stretch my back.
I then got onto US-70 eastbound to where US-191 splits, and followed that up and over the Black Hills. It was 4:30 a.m. by now and still dark, with the barest hints of light in the east. But it was warm, in the mid 80s. This concerned me because I expected it to be a few degrees cooler. It was going to be a very warm day.
I dropped into Three Way, then up highway AZ-78 eastbound toward the Big Lue Mountains. Mule Benchmark Peak is the main big peak to the right of the line of peaks, to the left of the pass where the highway surmounts the range. I rolled into the Black Jack Campground at 4:50 a.m., dawn just breaking. The temperature had cooled to a whopping 76°.
The peak rises above the highway directly across from the campground. It is heavily forested and most of the peak's mass is blocked by the lower trees. The actual highpoint is not visible from this vantage.
I started walking at near 5 a.m. sharp. I walked south on the highway toward a gravel pit (where I could have parked, realizing this after the fact). I passed the pit itself and picked a line, heading upward.
The trees here were dense with branches that often intermingled. It was a mix of everything: junipers, various pines, some oaks, but not any of the bigger firs. We were too low for them. The ground was brushy and grassy, but not too bad. I could usually see where my feet were landing. Rocks were everywhere, ready to roll.
This segment went slow and I had to make some big zigs and zags to find ways through the tangles. After a couple hundred feet of this, I could see open areas ahead of me. I was soon out of the thickest of the trees and in this more open area. The ground was grassier, and rocks formed into heaps and weak cliffs. I just moved slowly, keeping my eyes open for snakes.
I was on a mostly-open slope with good line-of-sight views. I could see a ridge above me, so I aimed for it. This put me on the main ridge of the mountain. I angled left and just walked up the gentle slopes toward the top. This covered about a half mile. The sun was up by now but shrouded by clouds. But now nearing 7,000 feet, it felt slightly cooler and there was a breeze that was refreshing.
I soon arrived to the summit, which lies on the cliff rim, with a thousand-foot drop below me. I found the benchmark, which is a peculiar one from the "U.S. Soil Erosion Service". I've never heard of them and this is the first time I've ever seen a benchmark stamped by this group.
I looked them up. Wikipedia says the SES was formed in 1933 to help farmers with best practices regarding soil management, mainly a result of the dust bowl era of the 1920s. They also adopted watershed management, which may explain why they were here. The SES later merged with other agencies. It technically is still around, just going by a much different name.
It had taken me about an hour to get here. It was warm but not uncomfortable, and slightly humid. I found a register and signed in, and snapped a few images. My back was doing well. It's still sore, but I had no sudden jolts of pain, which was good.
I did not stay too long. I exited mainly the same way, but dropping lower faster and using elevated positions to see ways down through the trees. I was able to keep to open slopes for most of the downhill hike. I stopped at one point just to look around. While standing, a rock rolled from under my boot and I fell. This was more of a butt-landing fall, but given my back, I was concerned I had tweaked it again. Fortunately, I had not.
I was down and back to my car slightly before 7 a.m.. The round trip covered about 2.5 miles, the terrain limiting me on how fast I could practically go. I felt pretty good, and my back felt good too. I got moving quickly.
Elevation: 5,191 feet ✳
• Prominence: 425 feet ✳
• Distance: 1.5 miles
• Time: 50 minutes
• Gain: 420 feet
• Conditions: Warm but with a breeze
• Wildlife: Snake
PB
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LoJ
I returned to my car and piled in; it was just past 7 a.m. when I got moving. The outside temperature (said my gauge) was 79°. As I descended back to Three Way, it warmed to near 90°, then dropped slightly as I gained elevation, now in the Black Hills.
Peak 5191 lies east of US-191, across the highway from Guthrie Peak. It lies on public (BLM) land with a small road toward it. It looked like a short hike, which was ideal for the moment.
The gate and road lie across from the main road that leads up to Guthrie Peak. The gate was unlocked and there was a Sportsman Access sign a few feet farther in, shot up a few times by sportsmen. I drove in just a few hundred feet, the road too rocky for my car. I parked in a clearing near a concrete tank. It was very warm now, 87°, but with a slight breeze and not as humid as it had been higher up. From my parking spot, the peak looked easy, with gentle slopes, low scrub, no trees and lots of rocks.
I was already dressed so I threw on my pack and started the short hike. I followed the road down into a draw, then started up the slopes. The terrain was all volcanic rocks, leaning back enough to be mostly stable. Grass was light and I could see my feet. Still, I kept an eye out for snakes, as they can blend in and be invisible from even a few inches away.
The lower slope led up to a knoll with rocky walls about five feet high. I did an end run around it, then followed the upper slope to the top. The summit was broad and bare, a couple of tree stumps placed up here, looking like they were hauled up. I tagged a couple rock outcrops and noticed a couple cairns, but could not find a register.
To the east there were a couple ridge points that looked equally as high. They were about a half mile away but I really did not want to hike to them. I got out my device and looked up the map and used the Lidar layer to affirm this point I was on was highest. The other points came in about 10-20 feet lower. I sat and took a break. It was still very warm, but there was a breeze which made a huge difference.
For the hike down, I repeated the same lines. Half way down I saw a silvery snake sunning itself. It was clearly not a rattler. It was narrow and looked like a coachwhip, but I cannot be sure. The various species look a lot alike to me. I took a photo of it.
I saw no more snakes on the hike out, and was back to my car after less than an hour. It was about 8:30 a.m. now, and the outside temperature had risen to just 89°. I was pleased to get this peak in, as I wanted another bonus peak to justify driving all these miles. I was feeling good, my back behaving very nicely.
Back on US-191, I was driving south when a little coupe passed me. I was going 75 m.p.h. where the speed limit was 65, the roads being curvy here where it passes through the highest parts of the Black Hills. He passed me at over 90. Moments later I see that he was pulled over by a trooper. Sucks to be him, I thought.
I passed on through Safford and stopped in Willcox for a cold drink, then just drove on home, arriving at 11:30 a.m.. I was dead tired and hot, but happy I got two peaks in, and that my back felt good. It was still late morning, and I had been on the road since 2 a.m.. I took a shower then napped for a couple hours.
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