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| Eagle Peak |
Hudspeth County (Texas) Highpoint Range Highpoint - Eagle Mountains Texas Prominence Peak, Rank: 3 |
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The Eagle Mountains lie in far-west Texas in remote Hudspeth County, south of Interstate-10 about 30 air-miles southeast of the tiny community of Sierra Blanca and about three hours from El Paso. The mountains rise high above the desert flats, and are the fourth-most prominent mountain range in Texas, behind the Chisos, Davis and Guadalupe Mountains. The Eagle Mountains are surrounded by private property; there is no public access, and the most notable "landmark" is a large geodesic FAA radar-dome nearby the summit of Eagle Peak, the range highpoint. This dome is visible from the Interstate, but getting to it is essentially impossible without someone granting permission to enter into the range.
For me, this was one peak that had been on my short list for a long time, ever since I "discovered" it in 1999 when compiling information about the various West Texas county highpoints. I was in the area during the 1999-2000 rollover, but quickly discovered that this peak, like so many in Texas, was off limits. So I put it off for many years while I figured out a way to possibly climb it on some future date.
Over the period from 2000 to 2003, I would make a yearly trip into Texas for county highpointing and some hiking, either alone or with my wife. Occasionally, passing the Hot Springs-Allamoore exit on Interstate-10, I would exit and follow the dirt road south about five miles to a railroad crossing. Passing over the tracks, the road comes to some beat-up ranch properties and an imposing gate with a more imposing sign about toying with FAA radar-domes. Ironically, the road after the gate is paved and goes right to the top. A few times I just sat there and hoped some workers would show up and allow me to drive to the top, but no one ever did.
In 2002, on the way home from a successful run of counties with Bob Martin, I got a lead from a guy in Sierra Blanca who runs "ranch tours". This guy owned a hotel in town and I asked him about these ranch tours, explicitly asking him about being allowed up to Eagle Peak. Why sure, he said, I can get you there. This was fantastic news to me, but each time I would call him to follow up, he was evasive and I eventually gave up on him as a viable lead. So back to square one. Frankly, by 2004 I had given up any hope of climbing Eagle and figfured it was just one I wouldn't get.
In early 2005, some friends of mine were able to get access into the Eagles and actually climbed the peak! This was fantastic news, and they forwarded me the landowner's name and contact information. I wrote him a short letter and in a few weeks, got a reply that we were welcome to hike the peak. This was outstanding, and I was thrilled to say the least. For this trip I would bring along the venerable Bob Martin, who had accompanied me on so many trips out to Texas and who had won us permission on so many properties. To be able to do this for him in return was an honor. We set an October date for the hike, figuring it would be cooler but not yet real cold.
The day before, I drove the long distance into Sierra Blanca directly from work, arriving well into the evening and staying at the hotel owned by the "ranch tours" guy. I ate at a local diner and the people there were totally cool. The town is tiny, about 700 people, but it is the county seat of Hudspeth County, so it has the buildings you would expect, like a courthouse, jail and other "official" buildings, then a few marts, gas stations and that's about it. The town has gained fame in recent years for two reasons: the surrounding area is a huge land-fill of sorts, where sludge from back east is spread out and allowed to dry, effects on the environment nonwithstanding, and secondly, a number of arrests of high-profile entertainers for minor pot possession. The town sits below a giant peak called Sierra Blanca, so named for its whitish appearance (and a peak I would like to hike someday, too). The whole area is very undeveloped and remote. You feel like it's 1860 driving through here.
Bob and I met early the next morning on the south side of Interstate-10 at a gas station. He rode with me as we rumbled along southeasterly along an extension of highway RM-1111 for about 30 miles to the landowner's residence, which was another few miles up a dirt road tucked into a side canyon. The landowner, whose name I won't print here, is a long-time west Texas resident whose family goes back many generations, who owns significant portions of the surrounding areas, and who have strong political connections. He is as old-time as one can get, a truly authentic character. He has a high profile in Hudspeth County, and later I learned that the "ranch tours" guy and this guy had a falling out a few years back which explains why I couldn't get onto Eagle Peak with the other guy. But the landowner was super nice and interested in our excursion. He said he gets a few people wanting to visit this way a year, mainly scout troops, birders and the occasional hikers. I recall him being more fascinated by Bob, who was older than him by a good 10 years at least. I think that impressed him. I had brought along a small token gift from my wife and I as appreciation for his generosity. We got the nickel tour of his ranch spread, then after a few minutes of chit-chat, he let us go off "to climb our mountain."
From the ranch home we drove a dirt road a small ways up some breaks and into the canyon (called Frenchman Canyon), parking at a stock tank at elevation 6,041 feet. The road goes farther, all the way to the top in fact, but it becomes extremely steep and beat-up, something only a Jeep or ATV could handle. We were perfectly happy to hike the rest of it. We were hiking by 9:30 a.m. in cool, sunny conditions, some moisture in the air creating a little haze to the east.
As mentioned above, the route to the top is a jeep road somehow cut into the side of the range. The first quarter-mile past my truck was easy, and the road was pretty good. Soon, though, the road makes very steep switchbacks up the slope, putting us onto the main range crest just below 7,000 feet elevation and below peak 7,282, about a mile west of Eagle Peak's summit. We took a break here to drink and relax. The land is open up here with a few pinon and a lot of low grass and scrub, with tremendous views across the canyons and into the desert flats beyond.
From our rest stop we continued east along the road and the spine of the range. I always marvel at how precarious some of these jeep roads are. This one is really strung high on the range crest, with outward leans and very bad exposure. I can't picture a Jeep on it, unless the driver has extraordinary skills. I surmise it was put in as a second way up or down from the top, should the main road fail for some reason. Still, it's a heck of a road. One can imagine the bull-dozer guy blading it in back in the olden days, probably scared nuts to look down. But for walking, it's a charm. We went up and down some bumps and eventually descended to a saddle below Eagle itself. From here we walked up the road some more, then left it as we went directly for the summit.
The top os a flattish patch of land covered in grass and scrub. The actual FAA tower is a few hundred feet to the south, not physically on the summit. No one was home apparently, and we could see the paved road below us on the other side. After all those years of waiting to make this summit, this felt especially good. It had taken us about two hours at a slow pace to get here. We congratulated one another and took a few photos, but didn't delay much. Technically, "our" landowner's land boundary ran right across the summit. We figured it'd be wise to drop back down to the road, back on to safer territory, to take our lunch break, which is what we did. Even from a lower position we had amazing views at the remote West Texas landscape. The day was warm and we were being bombarded by insects of various sizes. Thus, we didn't really spend much time on our lunch break, either.
We walked back to near Peak 7,282. Bob was interested in making the short hike to its top since it meets his "300-foot" rule. So we did, and the side-hike took about 20 minutes round-trip. The top was grassy and rocky; nothing too exciting, but it did provide a good vantage point for a photo of Eagle Peak. We then descended back to the road and from there, back to my truck, taking a slow, even pace. The day had become fairly warm and we had been gone about six hours. We rumbled down back to the ranch home. Some ranch hands, not knowing we were up in the canyon, had laid out some giant bales of hay in the road, blocking us. They were too big to move and I didn't want to push them with my truck because they could have toppled onto us. I was able to ease the truck onto the rocky berms and carefully get around these barriers. We did, and when we got back to the ranch house, no one was there, so we just went on our way, driving back to the gas station in Sierra Blanca.
Here, Bob and I congratulated one another and parted ways. Bob took Interstate-10 back while I stayed in town a little longer to look around. I decided to take a scenic route back, going north up RM-1111 and catching highway US-62/180 across the salt flats and west into El Paso. I stayed the night in Lordsburg, New Mexico, then drove home the next day. I put 1,100 miles on my truck in 48 hours, but it was worth it to climb the peak.
Post-script: Bob Martin passed away in late 2008 at the age of 86 (I believe). He was a remarkable man, and as time has passed, it turns out this peak is the last Texas highpoint that I have done, and probably it for awhile since I am no longer making trips into the state to bag its lower highpoints. I am nearly certain this was Bob's last too, and it was an honor to be able to gain the access for this peak and have Bob come along since he had done so much the same for me on other peaks and highpoints. This was a particularly nice peak on which to "end" our Texas journeys, although at the time we certainly had no idea it would be our last. Bob was so spry for a man in his 80s I just assumed he'd be hiking another 15 years at least! Rest easy, friend.
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(c) 2005, 2012 Scott Surgent. For entertainment purposes only. This report is not meant to replace maps, compass, gps and other common sense hiking/navigation items. Neither I nor the webhost can be held responsible for unfortunate situations that may arise based on these trip reports. Conditions (physical and legal) change over time! Some of these hikes are major mountaineering or backpacking endeavors that require skill, proper gear, proper fitness and general experience. |