I was starting on a week-long peak-bagging trip that would include a few peaks in both California and Nevada. The first few days I was on my own, with general plans to work in a few peaks in western Nevada, possibly a few near the Tahoe area. Later, I would pick up Adam Helman in Reno and we’d spend a few days working on the summits in northwest Nevada. I had time off in June of this year so I escaped the heat of Arizona for the heat of Southern California and a visit with my brother and his family. The next day I drove up the Cajon Pass (Interstate-15) into the high desert and US-395 north toward Big Pine and Bishop. The default plan was to get myself situated for a planned hike of Middle Sister, the highpoint of Lyon County, Nevada.

The drive went without incident, and after a few hours I rolled into Big Pine, only to learn a huge forest fire was raging around the Sweetwaters in Nevada and California, right smack where Middle Sister is located. I canceled those plans and immediately turned my eyes toward White Mountain Peak, the gigantic 14,000-foot peak northeast of town. I didn’t have detailed maps but I did have Gary Suttle’s book with me. I grabbed some provisions in Big Pine and rolled up highway CA-168 to the turn-off to the Bristlecone Pine and the Schulman Grove. The road up to the main visitor’s center is paved and in fine shape, but steep, and situated at about 10,000 feet. It was still early in the day so I took a short hike of the Schulman Grove, home to the world’s oldest Bristlecone, at over 4,000 years old. They do not identify the specific tree (to guard against people damaging it). Whatever tree was the oldest was immaterial to me. I enjoyed the walk among the sparse high “forest” of these gnarled trees. Plus, I got a little acclimatization in. I could definitely feel the elevation.

After a couple hours poking around the main tourist center, I drove farther up the road toward the trailhead. Along the way I stopped in at the Patriarch area for more exploring. The road is gravel and pretty solid. The mountain up here is so broad that even though I was at over 11,000 feet elevation, it felt like I was in a broad valley rather than high up on a mountain. Finally, I pulled into the small parking area below the gate that blocks the way toward the Barcroft Laboratories. There were a few vehicles up here, but as the day grew into dusk, the few hikers emerged and drove off, leaving me by myself up here for the night. It was amazing! A small storm blew through for about 20 minutes. Otherwise I had a mostly full-moon. Being the only one up here, at 11,500 feet elevation, in moon-glow, was surreal. I felt like I was on another planet. I even considered a moon-light start to my hike. I didn’t start quite that early, but I was moving at dawn.

The hike to the summit of White Mountain Peak is along a road, so there’s no real "climbing" involved, but it is 7.5 miles each way and over 3,000 feet of net gain one way, all this at 12,000-feet and above. I had never done a sustained long hike at elevation like this before. I was amused to note the gate was actually unlocked, but driving up would not save me much time, and probably either get me a citation or locked in, or both. So I walked it. After 45 minutes I had covered the couple miles to the Barcroft Laboratories, a University of California-funded lab studying high altitude effects on people, and animals apparently. The labs are basic buildings. As I walked by, I saw no evidence anyone was in, but there were some sheep in a pen nearby. Past the labs the route steepens slightly to surmount a small rise. Here, I was treated to one of the most beautiful mountain vistas I have ever seen: The gorgeous hulk of White Mountain Peak, still four miles distant, across a broad alpine plain. Just me, the peak and scrubby tundra. Wow! My pathetic photo at left barely does it justice. Note to self: get a digital camera, man!

The next couple of miles is mostly level, with a slight overall drop. I made good time and came to some low points, elevation about 13,000 feet, now about five miles from my truck and at the base of the main summit massif. I rested here and played “keep away” from the many pikas out trying to steal my stuff. So far, everything was just wonderful. The weather was cool and brisk, but not too bad considering the elevation. The summit was still over a thousand feet up, and a couple miles away.

The final miles went up the steep slopes, still following the service road as it cut across the talus fields. I made good time again, lagging now as I closed in on 14,000 feet. The road meandered too much for my patience, so I cut up across the slopes for the final few hundred feet to come upon the summit, roughly 8:45 a.m. and about 4 hours after starting. It’s a big summit, with a stone hut and some experimental stuff up here. There was no one but me, and I milled around the area for about 30 minutes, enjoying the views of the Sierra Nevada to my west and the endless Great Basin to the east. It was simply breathtaking.

The hike out went well. I saw people for the first time as I descended to about the 13,000-foot saddle below the main summit, and as I trekked out saw a few more hikers. The hike out took about three hours and went quickly. I was just enjoying the heady stroll in the alpine environment. I was mildly relieved to see the pikas had not nibbled at my truck’s hoses while I was gone. I took the drive out slowly and found myself back in civilization (Big Pine) around 2 p.m. From here I drove into Minden, Nevada, where I stayed the night in a hotel. I still had a day free before I had to pick up Adam, so the next day I hiked up Freel Peak, the highest summit overlooking Lake Tahoe.

For an unplanned peak, White Mountain Peak had gone very well and I was thrilled to have it done. It is a wondrous place, and I would go back again.